SRFNFF
The Best Is Past
Things are really winding down as we head into a time of smaller to unsurfable waves and inclement weather. Like Mark over at StormSurf said, "Hope you got your fill while the table was full."
There is some small hope that a small 20 second pulse showing now on the farway buoy will develop into something that will have positive residual effects for NorCal, but if it does it will surely be short lived.
Posted images today show satellite data for low level winds in the NE Pac still looking good but with the sea surface and wind analysis (black and white) showing the effects of a developing storm (red circle) moving our way, about 1250 miles from the bay.
This system, combined with a split jetstream 
that will be driving rain and wind downcoast from the northwest, will probably produce the raw wind swell the forecasters are talking about. Predictions indicate that SoCal will not get a free get out of jail card or exemption from the wet weather either.
The SUP experience does not solely rely on waves for it's generation of fun…so while conditions are not of the storm variety, getting out for a paddle in our beautiful ocean is always an option. Let us then "walk on the water" together.
Meanwhile, our wave quality and quantity has been exceptional North, South and Center this past couple weeks…did I say "Life is Good!"
Give thanks with a grateful heart. [Link]
Summer in Winter
To quote the NWS…
EARLY MORNING SATELLITE FOG PRODUCT LOOKS MORE LIKE A
SATELLITE IMAGE FROM JUNE THAN ONE FROM MID-FEBRUARY.All this good weather has it's price. I was talking to self the other day thinking…you know maybe the best time to vacation from NorCal is in the summer when we get far fewer waves and sitting in the fog waiting for ankle biters is colder than surfing in head high screamers in February.
Currently, things are winding down. The swell is slowly dropping in size while maintaining 14 seconds intervals. The faraway buoy is accurately indicating our nearshore buoy swell and wave reality.
We’ll have to settle for small waves until Wednesday or Thursday when we may have to settle for no waves because that's when the series of rain storm systems starts pushing through our area. Look for rain starting then and on through the weekend.
We can hope for winds and rain to be light and that we'll still be getting out. But the smart money is on raw wind swell…SoCal too…(sorry John). [Link]
I Missed It!
(…that is if you want to call surfing in mega giganticus bay bound close-outs while getting your 
St. Francis of ASSisi kicked…missing it…) But truthfully, along with the pounding everyone took at least once during the last 24-hours, there were moments of pure exhilaration and rides across the wave strewn playing field of over a 1/4 mile. 
Here’s what Vince told me: "I tried out my old bones yesterday at (Sarge's) in huge surf. Got one smooth long ride almost to Los Arboles and another shorter close out one into point. And feeling all confident (already forgetting the minor thrashing I took just paddling out) I proceeded to paddle back out and thought I was sitting safely outside until I got thrashed 
by a huge outside set that truly challenged my ability to hold my breath. My whole wetsuit filled up after being submerged and tumbled by 7-8 waves. But I survived without any new aches or pains and after one more smaller wave that had a hard inside closeout I decided to come in and act my age (or at least in line with my prematurely arthritically impaired low back and shoulder). 
Hah, no one who surfs can act their age…forever young is what we are, or at least want to be until the day we die.
The swell dropped off dramatically today. I had projects to do, but I thought these big waves were going to last at least through Sunday. Don't get me wrong, the swell is still putting up respectable numbers, but nothing like yesterday, and earlier this morning, except that only the high tide spots were working this morning. 
I paddled out in the mid-afternoon and surfed until dusk. Waves were consistent but somewhat flawed by the prevailing southwesterlies which blew until dark. Sets were still coming in which just underscored the fact that we're getting spoiled! The waves weren't as "perfect" as I wanted them to be but fact is, I got a ton of waves in fair conditions…once again.
Sam was out making some solid bottom turns on his Angulo 10'8" and throwing some nice cutbacks. Hard to do on such a big board. He seems to have using the paddle to turn back well in hand. MikeyB was out in trunks and a rash guard, mostly cruising but getting a few waves here and there. Somebody was ripping on a SUP at Sarge's, pretty sure it was Surftech John. He moves his SUP around like a 9' performance longboard.
February 16, 2008 (Sa)
In: 1515
Out: 1715
AT= 60 to 55 degrees
WT= 52.7 degrees at the farshore buoy
Wx: Clear and sunny
Tide: .37 Rising to 2.05
Wind: WSW 1 to 14 mph
Sea Surface: Moderately bumpy with wind ripples
Buoy: NWS
1400: 10.2 feet @ 17.4 Seconds WNW
1500: 9.5 feet @ 16 Seconds WNW
1600: 9.2 feet @ 16 Seconds WNW
1700: 9.8 feet @ 16 Seconds WNW
10′4″ Angulo SUP with Infinity paddle
Rock reefs
Waves: 7.5 feet at 15 seconds (Nearshore buoy approx. ave.) Storm Surf Buoy Model [Link]
Brother Joe Update
Brother Joe tied into some fine ones today. In his words: I went out at about 12:30, it was as early as I could get there. Tide was low and on the upswing. The buoy was reading 20 second intervals, I didn't even look at the wave height as I franticly switched off the computer, gathered the essentials and strapped down the stand up board on top of my Toyota. Upon arrival, the wind was blowing a bit but there were some good waves coming through with a slight chop on the surface.
I paddled out at GW's, then set course for our usual spot. After cruising past Sarge's, a nice outside set wave came through. A few hard strokes of the paddle and I was in. The wave was overhead to head high. After a good ride I popped over the top to paddle back out but to my horror, there was nothing but huge close out sets lined up as far as I could see barreling down on me. I gave it every effort to punch through but only got carried closer and closer to certain collision with wharf. I wisely chose to pick my own destiny and take a wave into the beach and land at a place of my choosing instead of risking collision with the pilings.
Upon exit, I walked down the beach and re-entered south of the wharf and easily made my way back out. More monster sets came through but I pressed on to Sarges before trying for another ride. I took a few more waves from there being careful not to get caught inside again. The NW wind was continuing to build. I decided to take one more. Soon, another giant set arrived and I was the only one there at outside Sarge's. I dropped in on this wave that was easily one and a half times overhead. I got a fairly long ride then pulled out to avoid the close out section. That was my last wave. What a day!
[Link]
New Swell On Us
The next in this long series of winter swells, predicted to make landfall for the weekend, is on us. Faraway buoy readings began recording 20+ second periods at 9PM last night. The nearshore buoy started showing forerunners at 7AM indicating 8.5' at 21.1 seconds WNW. SoCal should see solid winter energy and direction by Saturday morning.
My weekend is booked with Women of Vision projects I promised 
I'd help with, but I may be able to grab some waves Saturday afternoon late or evening, and Sunday late. Updates when and if I get 'em.
NOTE: Long range surface pressure and wind model animation is showing a breakdown of the high pressure that has kept the storm track north of us, and helped to provide all the great wave action this past week. If the model predictions are correct then we may see some rain and a return to the wet weather by next Thursday 
morning.
UPDATES: I returned from the Valley early enough to get some pics of this big swell before dark. Buoy has been holding steady at 19-21 seconds and 10 feet throughout the day. Best time to surf was this morning before 9:30AM when the southeast wind came up and degraded conditions, although I'm sure plenty of hardy big surf enthusiasts got some good waves today. A band of fog is sitting offshore and will probably make landfall sometime tonight. No doubt it will be blanketing the coast tomorrow morning, making for dangerous conditions in 
big surf. All should be wary and assess their abilities realistically.
[Link]
Getting Gnarly
The SUP big wave Ku Ikaika Challenge is set to go this morning, coinciding with a very big swell that hit Hawaii last night. This swell is forecast to start tickling our shores Friday, before the full on assault over the weekend. Once again the weekend folks will score but should do so with some trepidation.
Some forecasters are also calling for heavy fog and very heavy surf, making for dangerous conditions. Everyone should use good judgment, be cautious and assess their ability to handle difficult and dangerous conditions.
All through yesterday afternoon, last night and this morning we've had strong offshores in the 8-10 mph hour range with gusts up to 20 plus. Surf size and swell period has been in the double digit range. I've got a sinus infection and got a prescription for antibiotics to head this thing off before it becomes full blown.
Tides are falling and the reefs might be good later. Updates to follow.
UPDATE: The big story today was WIND and plenty of it. I surfed twice, once in the morning at Beginners where I've been wanting to sample the sand bar, and then later in the afternoon on my way back home when I stopped at Sarges and it looked pretty good.
The story at Beginners is simple…to much wind to SUP. Recorded wind data from 1040 to 1105 when I surfed was wind N at 19 mph with gusts of 32 mph. I just wanted to see if I could do it 
and essentially, I couldn't. It reminded me of the U-Tube of Laird at Hookipa only I'm NOT Laird. There was no way I could paddle into any wave. I could barely stand and paddle when the big gusts hit. After a half hour I was done. 
Spent the rest of the morning visiting with my in-laws and taking 
pics of various places. The Westside was pretty big and completely wind blown. 
The only people getting consistent rides were the boogie and knee boarders. Even the lay down paddlers couldn't get in, and many spent their time getting blown out the back of waves or catching edges and taking gas in the wind chopped faces. The Eastside was less windy. Little La Jolla was 
dishing up tubular lefts and the Point was putting up double overhead waves. There was nothing there I wanted to take on with my SUP.
I finally checked Sarges where it was much smaller, less windy (but still blowing pretty good 
offshore) and SUP surfable. Teak was the only one out when I paddled out. A friend of his joined in after a while, then Teak went in, his friend went in and I had it to myself for a half hour. Surf was waist high to overhead on good sets.
Vince and a couple other guys paddled out and that was the beginning of the after work, after school crowd filling in. I scored some nice waves in too much wind and decided to call it a day after two hours of hard exercise and many, many waves. Insane 
leg workout today.
February 14, 2008 (Th)
In: 1400
Out: 1600
AT= 62 to 61 degrees
WT= 52 degrees at the farshore buoy
Wx: Clear and sunny
Tide: 1.5 Rising to 2.73
Wind: North to NNW 13 to 16 mph
Sea Surface: Light to moderately bumpy with heavy wind ripples
Buoy: NWS
1400: 9.5 feet @ 14.8 Seconds NW
1500: 8.9 feet @ 13.8 Seconds WNW
1600: 8.9 feet @ 14.8 Seconds NW
1700: 9.8 feet @ 11.4 Seconds WNW
10′4″ Angulo SUP with Infinity paddle
Rock reefs
Waves: 6 feet at 13 seconds (Nearshore buoy approx. ave.) Storm Surf Buoy Model [Link]
SUP'n With Friends
Paddled out this morning into a sweet and warm winter day. Not a cloud in the sky at 0650 and a light offshore breeze on the face of the deep. Priscilla and Patrick (who got the best waves of the early morn session) were already out. Priscilla paddled down to the next peak north while Patrick prodeeded to shred the pelagic, new dawn offerings. I was the first SUP rider out, but was quickly joined by Mash, MikeyB and Joe (after a short while). 
The swell is resting for a bit before kicking up again. There's a 20 second period in the water at the farway buoy. That buoy usually indicates for the farshore buoy. I'm thinking sometime this afternoon we might see some forerunners. 
We had a blast this morning swapping boards. I got to surf the Mahi1, set up with the 2+1 fin config and a 9" center fin. Joe surfed it too. Mash and Joe surfed my Angulo Olohe. We didn't have time to compare notes in depth because everybody had to get going after surfing but this could make for a great bull session in the future. 
I finally switched in the fin on the Olohe that John sent up with Mash, a Greenough 9" cutaway, and was blown away at how well it works. I got to thinking that the Olohe is pretty flat rockered and might nose ride well with a different fin set up from what I had been riding (2+1 with flexy 9" Preisendorfer center fin). Wow…what a difference it made. I slotted the fin all the way back 
in the box (shoots, if you're gonna do something…do it!) and removed the two side-biters. As a single fin, I was afraid the board would really be hard to turn…not so. And the difference it made in nose riding was day and night. I didn't get a legit five or ten, but I was parked on the front 1/4 of the board for many a ride. And the fin didn't seem to take away from the straight-line speed of the board. Thanks John! 
I totally got off on the 10' Tim Stamps built Mahi1 and was carving it pretty good. Mash reminded me that the board was built for a 200-225# guy. For sure it was too big for me…but I kept thinking of the possibilities. I could probably ride that board at 9'4"…maybe smaller. It made me start jonesing again for a SUP performance board. It's a good thing Tim lives in SoCal, if not I'd probably be standing at his counter right now instead of writing this post.
The diamond tail on the Mahi1 coupled with the width at the tail and through the center makes for a very stable board. The Mahi seems as stable to me as the 31" wide, 11'9" Angulo Nui, and that's a stable ride. No problem standing, paddling or catching waves with the Mahi. Because it's made for a bigger guy, there is too much float in the board for me, especially at the tail. But the 
diamond tail shape is loose as a goose on Exlax. Even at 150# I was able to move the board around pretty well and on my first chest high wave was able to carve a legitimate bottom turn. The board wants to go on rail as opposed to the Ohlohe which turns more by pivoting…like a long, flat longboard which is what it is. But truth be known, the Olohe is a great all-round SUP which will surf and paddle with the best of them. It's just not what I would call a performance board…not at my weight anyway.
But I've been suspecting the obvious for a while…must start building Quiver. It used to be just two, now I'm thinking three. A coastal day cruiser like the Nui; a solid all-rounder for surf and paddle, like the Olohe; and a performance ripper, like the Mahi.
Thanks to MikeyB for taking the pics of me and Mash.
February 12, 2008 (Tu)
In: 0650
Out: 0905
AT= 42.9 to 55.3 degrees
WT= 52.5 degrees at the farshore buoy
Wx: Clear and sunny
Tide: 1.26 Falling to .84 Rising to 1.0
Wind: NNW to 2 to calm
Sea Surface: Light wind ripples to glassy
Buoy: NWS
0600: 7.5 feet @ 13.8 Seconds WNW
0700: 9.5 feet @ 13.8 Seconds WNW
0800: 8.2 feet @ 12.9 Seconds WNW
0900: 9.2 feet @ 12.9 Seconds WNW
10′4″ Angulo SUP with Infinity paddle
Rock reefs
Waves: 5 feet at 13 seconds (Nearshore buoy approx. ave.) Storm Surf Buoy Model [Link]
WNW Swell Slowly Backing Down
This beautiful WNW swell that made landfall Friday afternoon/evening is starting to fade. What 
an incredible amount of great, quality waves it provided. We are blessed! Those who can surf primarily only on the weekends definitely got some. They should be happy and satisfied.
Church this morning and maybe some low tide waves this evening. More later…
UPDATE: Today was probably the most beautiful day of the 
winter. Light winds, warm sunny temps and clear skies. It was too gorgeous not to take a paddle at the very least. So I launched knowing full well that I would get some waves, and a beautiful sunset on the water.
Sam and Joe were suping. Of course there were a few people on the peaks that were breaking, after all the residual effects of a fine weekend would not be unfelt. Wave action has definitely slowed to waist high. The best spots will still be breaking tomorrow, but unless the swell comes back up, things will be much smaller overall tomorrow. 
February 10, 2008 (Su)
In: 1640
Out: 1800
AT= 60 to 54 degrees
WT= 52.5 degrees at the farshore buoy
Wx: Clear and sunny
Tide: 1.16 Falling to .65
Wind: Calm to ESE at 3 then to 1 mph
Sea Surface: Light bump to light wind ripples
Buoy: NWS
1600: 7.9 feet @ 14.8 Seconds WNW
1700: 6.9 feet @ 14.8 Seconds WNW
1800: 6.9 feet @ 14.8 Seconds WNW
1900: no data
10′4″ Angulo SUP with Infinity paddle
Rock reefs
Waves: 4 feet at 15 seconds (Nearshore buoy approx. ave.) Storm Surf Buoy Model [Link]
Saturday Dawn Patrol
Still plenty of swell left in the water, although swell period is trending down after peaking last night between 8 and 10P. But even still, swell numbers held steady at 11-12 feet at 16-17 seconds all day long in spectacular Winter sunshine.
Amazing how much affect the tide has on a spot. The reefs is a low tide place and it was interesting to note that the best rides this morning were over shortly after the tide hit 2.5 feet. After that there was too much backwash bump in the faces 
and it just didn't break right over the bottom, causing lot's of sections and short rides. 
The NWS satellite derived water vapor animations and Stormsurf’s weather model animation provide good reason to believe that we should see good, 
consistent surf over the next 4 - 7 days.
February 9, 2008 (Sa)
In: 0645
Out: 0800
AT= 39 to 42 degrees
WT= 52.2 degrees at the farshore buoy
Wx: Clear and sunny
Tide: 2.15 Rising to 3.23
Wind: N at 2 mph to calm
Sea Surface: Light to moderate backwash bump (worsening with the rising tide)
Buoy: NWS
0600: 13.5 feet @ 19 Seconds WNW
0700: 11.5 feet @ 17.4 Seconds NW
0800: 12.5 feet @ 19 Seconds WNW
0900: 13.8 feet @ 17.4 Seconds WNW
10′4″ Angulo SUP with Infinity paddle
Rock reefs
Waves: 7 feet at 19 seconds (Nearshore buoy approx. ave.) Storm Surf Buoy Model [Link]
Long Period Swell On Tap
At 4AM this morning 46059 registered the first of the long period swell for Norcal and points south, forecast to make landfall in our area sometime late this afternoon or this evening. The buoy transmitted it's data to the NDBC via satellite at 9.5 feet at 25 seconds. Soon thereafter it backed down to 20 second periods with wave heights of 11 to 14 feet building progressively.
Weather forecast is sunny with light offshores starting up today and maintaining for tomorrow. Hopefully those offshores will kick up soon because we're starting to get heavy fog at the biggest spots. Saturday could be an epic situation. The nearshore buoy started showing the first of the long period forerunners at 10AM and is now posting periods of 20 second plus at 9 feet. Winds are currently WSW, par for the course from this current weather pattern. 
UPDATE: After I saw the nearshore buoy posting consistently at 20 plus second periods I started to get jazzed. I knew we had something for real. I kept watching the internet data and things weren't looking all that great on the webcams until I saw a nice set breaking outside the pier. Then I knew that it was on! 
I finished installing the cat door (yeah, cat door) and left the mess for clean up after my surf. I figured I could haul buns and get in the water by 1615 hours and surf for a couple hours before dark. I was right. 
The inside sand bar was kickin' and the shortboarders were on it. A little fat but much fun. The tide was perfect and the swell obliging. The best sets were 6 to 8 in number, chest to one foot overhead. My first good ride was about 350 yards from APThouse Point to Herbies house. Numerous righteous rides followed. Sam was out on his SUP. Joe paddled out from inside after a couple hundred yard ride from an outside reef. Michael was out on his 11' Takayama carving some graceful lines from the point. His young son Aiden was struggling on his shortboard out in the reefs and wanted to hang with his Dad. (We both thought he should have been inside on the sand bar.) 
But no matter….Life is good! As sweet as it gets…if it's too much bigger tomorrow, the reefs will close out. Bombora? Maybe…
Joe and I were the last ones out on surfboards and we each took a good size wave in from the same set. I got caught inside and as I blasted through the fourth of six whitewater piles my paddle got ripped out of my hands. Shizizit! I was caught between an unknown number of breaking waves and the riprap at the base of the cliff. No time to look for the paddle now, get out of the impact zone and into the clear. I belly paddled back to the pier and made my way in during a lull. Joe's last ride was into the beach and he already figured I'd lost my paddle when he saw me belly paddling for shore. 
As soon as I hit the beach we ran towards the riprap, looking for the lost paddle. Hallelujah! I found it floating in the water about five yards from the high water mark. It once was lost, but now it's found…those dollar bills with wings were flying back at me!
Just another hazard of SUP surfing. I'm sure it won't be the last time.
February 8, 2008 (F)
In: 1615
Out: 1815 (dark)
AT= 62 to 53 degrees
WT= 52.3 degrees at the farshore buoy
Wx: Clear and sunny
Tide: -0.18 Falling to -0.40 to Rising to -.08
Wind: SSW/SE at 2 mph to calm
Sea Surface: Light bump
Buoy: NWS
1500: 8.2 feet @ 21.1 Seconds WNW
1600: 9.8 feet @ 21.1 Seconds WNW
1700: 9.2 feet @ 21.1 Seconds WNW
1800: 9.2 feet @ 21.1 Seconds WNW
1900:10.8 feet @ 21.1 Seconds WNW
10′4″ Angulo SUP with Infinity paddle
Rock reefs
Waves: 6 feet at 22 seconds (Nearshore buoy approx. ave.) Storm Surf Buoy Model [Link]
Trestles Saved - For Now
At 11PM last night eight of ten Coastal Commissioners voted not to allow a major toll road to be built through San Onofre State Park, thus preserving one of the most pristine and last "surfing" state parks in California. For more on this important decision click here…
Pic credit: ASPworldtour.com/Tostee [Link]
Updates
Things have slowed a bit since Monday's session. Tuesday was good, a bit smaller but waves none-the-less. I was too thrashed from Monday's three hour session to get out though. Suffice it to say that everything was sore. I took a day off from physical things except for a nice walk with the wife. 
With all the rain and runoff we've had so far this winter Beginners Cove has a huge sandbar built up right in the middle of the cove. This is creating the coveted longboard wave that the place is known for. Many are on it, let me say it again…many. 
Wednesday and today look even smaller surfwise. High tides in the morning are swamping just about everything. Very few people out surfing. Yesterday's afternoon/evening winds were south and southeast making for small, sloppy surfing. Today doesn't look a whole lot better.
Forecasters are calling for a nice weekend pulse and sunny weather for the next 7 - 10 days. Sat pics and animations show two nice storms moving across the storm track towards the Gulf. 
Water vapor sat pic shows a nice long fetch of wind aimed at Hawaii and the CA coast, so it looks promising. The weekenders will score again.
(As of 0838 today's date eBlogger in Firefox is not letting me post pics and none of the shortcuts work. Will update when they fix it.) [Link]
Fun Windswell with Strong Offshores
The sun finally showed itself and the weather turned classic Norcal fantastic today. A strong windswell registering 14-15 feet at 13 seconds blew down the Washington/Oregon coast, filling in last night and pumping up waves from the westside to the eastside. I surfed another three hour session in much smaller waves today than Friday, but the super consistent waist to chest high waves were fun and a good workout. The workout was made even more remarkable because of the strong northerly winds that were blowing 5-17 mph with a high mark gust of 20mph. It was hard enough just to stay in one place, much less paddle into the drop in the face of a howling offshore, set on driving you out the back (which more than a few did).
I paddled out around 1:30 with two other longboarders in the water. They left after about a half hour and I surfed alone until Joe joined me. We surfed for another two hours by ourselves just getting wave after wave.
Wave quality wasn't as good as Friday. Rides for the most part were short, steep, fast and windy. There were occasionally long rides to the inside, but instead of stitching together 100 to 200 yard plus rides like Friday, it was more like 40 and 50 yard rides. Inside, the waves were dredging over the low tide reefs, making for impossibly square sections that were not navigable. Rides were standard for Yellow House, letting me know how extraordinary the waves were in January and early February here. Still, we had a lot of fun in demanding conditions with no one out.
February 4, 2008 (M)
In: 1324
Out: 1630
AT= 57 to 55 degrees
WT= 52.5 degrees at the farshore buoy
Wx: Clear and sunny
Tide: .18 Falling to -0.47 to Rising to .02
Wind: N/NW at 1-17 mph, gusting to 20 mph
Sea Surface: Light to semi-moderate bump with wind scallops
Buoy: NWS
1200: 14.8 feet @ 12.9 Seconds WNW
1300: 15.7 feet @ 12.9 Seconds WNW
1400: 14.4 feet @ 13.8 Seconds NW
1500: 13.8 feet @ 12.9 Seconds NW
1600: 14.1 feet @ 13.8 Seconds NW
1700: 13.5 feet @ 12.9 Seconds NW
10′4″ Angulo SUP with Infinity paddle
Rock reefs
Waves: 8 feet at 12 seconds (Nearshore buoy approx. ave.) Storm Surf Buoy Model [Link]
Swell For A Day
0930 Friday February 1 - As of this writing the NWS has issued a high surf advisory. Multiple buoys are showing 20 second plus period energy, and the wind is cooperating. Got to get this while we can as tomorrow another front is blowing in, with south winds and all. Some spots are already showing the forerunners of this decent size swell. Could be short-term classic. Later, with an update.
——————————-
0730 Saturday February 2 - Short term for sure and not exactly classic but close! I paddled out at noon (Friday) into a stiff NW wind. Paddle from the pier was uphill all the way to 
AptHouse Point, a distance of about 5 or 600 yards. From there, until three hours later when I got out, exhausted and sated, it was non-stop waves. I took down many hundred yards rides. I hooked up 200 hundred yard outside waves with 100 yard insiders. For two hours there were no more than three of us out. Most of that time I surfed alone. 
It was a weird weather day to say the least. Wind went from NW at 5-6 mph to offshore at same speed to calm. Skies went from sunny, to gray with clouds to dark gray and nasty to rain and back to light overcast. During the short cloud burst it blew straight offshore. None of this was forecast. The day was supposed to be sunny and bright with light to moderate NW winds. 
Even though the NW winds were blowing side shore, and the wave tops were crumbly, the wind did not ruin the wave faces, or cause wind driven sections. The wind direction made catching waves even easier. When the wind turned offshore it took several waves to adjust, because catching waves on a SUP (like paddling) into a headwind isn't easy. One thing for sure…I'll take a strong NW wind over a S or SE or even NE any day. The sea surface stayed mildly bumpy all day whereas easterlies make for washboard conditions.
Joe paddled over at 2P and kept me out for another hour. Good thing too. It blew offshore and Yellow House started to go off. Surfer Joe put together a couple of classic nose rides on the Nui. About 2:30 word was out and the place got packed. It went from three people to 30 in 40 minutes. No matter, there were still plenty of waves to go around.
February 1, 2008 (F)
In: 1205
Out: 1500
AT= 52 to 54 to 52 degrees
WT= 53 degrees at the farshore buoy
Wx: Cloudy and bright to rain to clearing
Tide: .75 Falling to .5 to Rising to .9
Wind: NW at 5-6 mph, to N at 4-6 mph to calm
Sea Surface: Light to semi-moderate bump with wind ripples
Buoy: NWS
1200: 13.5 feet @ 19 Seconds NW
1300: 13.1 feet @ 17.4 Seconds WNW
1400: 17.7 feet @ 17.4 Seconds NW
1500: 16.4 feet @ 17.4 Seconds NW
1600: 15.1 feet @ 14.6 Seconds WNW
10′4″ Angulo SUP with Infinity paddle
Rock reefs
Waves: 8 feet at 14 seconds (Nearshore buoy approx. ave.) Storm Surf Buoy Model [Link]
El Viento Del Diablo
It probably wasn't wind dispatched by the REAL devil, it just seemed that way.
Paddled out at 0750 onto a moderately bumpy sea, but manageable. Swell was registering 12 feet at 16 seconds from the NW at 4AM…a good sign, if only conditions would hold, and the incoming storm would back off just a bit. Well they didn't, and it didn't either.
If the east wind hadn't come up so early there would have been some classic head high sets. Even with the wind there were some good rides to be had, but it was a workout. Usually I get my water shots standing on my board, paddle resting against my chest and hands free. It was so bumpy after just a few minutes that my paddle wouldn't stay still. It just wanted to wash off my board. I got a couple nice long rides on head high waves, and a couple nice late, late takeoffs that I stuck, and a couple I didn't stick. C'est la vie…you never know unless you try. 
Surfed it for two hours. Mikey B and Mash beat me out but went in early. Joe paddled out after an hour or so and kept me in the water another hour, where I got my best waves. Thanks Joe!
Leg strengthening exercises on the Bowflex are paying off. Today was a real leg workout, it never got easy and I couldn't relax, constant adjusting. Paddling to catch waves was a challenge there were so many troughs. The side chop would turn you 40 degrees in a single stroke if it caught you just right, causing the board to broach in the wave. There were also double troughs on the wave faces on take off, causing the board to nose into the "second" wave crest. You had to paddle through that without pearling to drop in again.
Wind never let up and grew steadily worse leading to the overhead rain clouds forecast by the NWS. There was so much bump in the water that the shoulders would white cap in the wave crest. Dodging storms.
January 31, 2008 (Th)
In: 0750
Out: 0945
AT= 44 - 50 degrees
WT= 53 degrees at the farshore buoy
Wx: Another storm moving in
Tide: 3.3 Falling to 1.82
Wind: N at 2 mph, to E and SE at 4-6 mph
Sea Surface: Bumpy with white caps in the wave crests
Buoy: NWS
0700: 12.5 feet @ 16 Seconds NW
0800: 13.8 feet @ 14.8 Seconds NW
0900: 12.8 feet @ 16 Seconds NW
1000: 11.8 feet @ 16 Seconds WNW
10′4″ Angulo SUP with Infinity paddle
Rock reefs
Waves: 6 feet at 14 seconds (Nearshore buoy approx. ave.) Storm Surf Buoy Model [Link]
Quickie Between Storms
There isn't a guy in the history of mankind that will turn down a quickie…so it is with me. My dawn patrol paddle out this morning paid off with some fun waves and a good paddle, but it didn't last long.
I arrived in the line-up at Sarges at about 0750, the only guy out. Tide was a bit fat but I snagged a set wave right off the bat. I knew the waits would be too long so I headed to Gdubs and picked off a few there. In the offshore wind chill I watched the cold front plow it's way into the bay. If anything, the weather hallmark for this month has been cold and wet. Today was no different. I surfed Gdubs until the tide lowered enough to where I didn't want to ride into the rock pile. So I headed back to Sarges. So far, no one wanted to surf with me…I was alone.
It was good to be back n the water. I couldn't wipe the smile off my face. I was babbling and laughing to myself as I paddled back out to the line-up. Two flat belly paddlers joined me after a while. Do you think they thought it strange that the demented stand up guy couldn't keep at straight face? Of course not…they're surfers too.
Brother Joe paddled over after a bit on his Nui; another longboarder paddled out, and then Mashie hit the water on Mahi 1. He looks good on green. There were plenty of waist high peelers to go around, and everyone was getting their fair share. Good thing too, because ceilings were lowering.
The wind shifted from offshore to east and southeast about 0900, and things progressively deteriorated. Still, a good surf in between storms. Rain started up again about 3PM. We'll be dodging storms all this week and maybe into next.
La Mission Exaltacion already has twice as much rain this year to date as last year, some locations have three times last years total. Drought over?
January 29, 2008 (Tu)
In: 0750
1st Wave: n/a
Out: 0945
Wave count: n/a
AT= 38 - 44 degrees
WT= 53 degrees at the farshore buoy
Wx: Cold front moving in
Tide: 2.2 Falling to 1.5
Wind: NNW at 2 mph, to E at 1 mph
Sea Surface: Light bump with slight wind mottling
Buoy: NWS
0700: 11.8 feet @ 12.9 Seconds NW
0800: 11.5 feet @ 11.4 Seconds NW
0900: 10.5 feet @ 12.9 Seconds NW
1000: 10.5 feet @ 12.9 Seconds NW
10′4″ Angulo SUP with Infinity paddle
Rock reefs
Waves: 5 feet at 12 seconds (Nearshore buoy approx. ave.) Storm Surf Buoy Model [Link]
Clearing….Finally!
Skies began to clear early this morning as the rains and heavy winds from yesterday began receding. Seas were still confused and nearshore wind waves were breaking very close together. But conditions are slowly improving as the day ages, even as occasional showers drift through. Some wave-horny souls are snagging whatever comes their way…the surfing world's equivalent of closing time.
One after-rain, water runoff concern is water quality which at the most suspect spots is off the fecal coliform count charts. If the wind dies later this afternoon, I paddle surf…if not, dawn patrol (unless of course the next scheduled low pressure storm arrives early). [Link]
Severe Wx Diminishing
The severe winds and rains that have been pummeling NorCal for the last week are starting to wane. Conditions will be drier and less windy starting this afternoon and heading into the new week. But we are still in the prevailing storm track for at least another week.
Our friends in CenCal (Ventura and Santa Barbara area) and SoCal are about to experience the high winds and rain today. NWS has issued all manner of high wind, rain, surf, rip current, etc. advisories for SoCal. Hopefully the burn areas will not see any radical earth movement based upon the recent fires and the over saturated ground. 
If the winds pull back a lot today and tonight, perhaps some waves in the morning? The nearshore buoy is registering 16 feet at 9 seconds as a result of the strong S/SE winds. That will surely go away when the winds die down. But there might be enough residual swell left to produce some fun ones. There is also NW wind blowing down the coast from the Gulf to CA…that might send some waves.
Will keep checking swell and conditions. Waiting…wave starved…waiting… [Link]
Storm Conditions Prevail
No surfing today. The second stationary low dropping down from Canada continues to spin just offshore, entrapping a huge plume of moisture and dragging it onshore. NWS has posted a flood watch for the next 24 hours. Winds at the Harbor are 27 - 35 mph out of the SE. Everything's a mess. [Link]
Rain, Rain, Rain
Rain started in earnest early this morning. The forecast calls for heavy rain starting tonight and lasting through Saturday when it will begin to diminish. Everything is still unsettled into next week though which means a good chance of more rain, snow and even thunderstorms.
The 4mm infrared satellite image loop shows the open ocean 
precip (circled) starting to blow-up as it heads our way. Suffice it to say that if this rain was over land we'd be flipping through the yellow pages, looking for Noah's Ark Services and Transport.
The anomalous south swell has been replaced by a W to WNW swell which started putting up decent numbers (5 feet at 19 seconds) just in time 
to run head on into "victory at sea" conditions. At the harbor, wind is up and out of the 
southeast at 23 to 28 mph. Suffice it to say that no one is surfing today…at least this morning, and chances of it calming enough by later in the day to catch a few this evening, look bleak.
The sunset photo at right was taken yesterday evening. "Red sky at night, sailors delight"…yeah, right.
Who took my tickets to Maui? [Link]
Rain and Snow Showers
Stationary low pressure made up of cold air gifted from Canada has set up camp just offshore of NorCal. This very slowly moving low is slated to stick around for the rest of the week, exiting the area Thursday or Friday. It's farewell will give way to yet another low, forecasted to bring even more rain and snow to our area.
As of this writing there is no swell. The WNW and NW buoy numbers are in the neighborhood of five or six feet at 10 or 11 seconds. Wind is steady out of the south/southeast. A new, weak southwest swell has forerunners showing at 4.6 feet at 17.4 seconds. I'm not holding my breath for this out of season pulse to turn into much of anything except a winter-time anomaly.
Conditions are poor. There might be a possibility of sneaking in a session in between the exiting and entrancing low pressure areas as they trade places later this week, maybe Thursday morning. Will have to pay attention to get something this week.
Good thing we got some good ones Sunday afternoon eh bro's? [Link]
New Swell Showing
Fore runners from a new swell registering predominantly WNW on the farshore buoy started up Saturday night around 7PM. Even during Sunday morning's high tide, waves were showing at the biggest spots.
I waited until the low tide to surf some peelers at the reefs. I paddled out from the vill beach break and into a moderately stiff NW wind which never let up, even after dark when I got out.
Nobody was sitting on the section of reef I wanted to surf, probably because the low tide was 
closing out the usually makeable inside section. But the tide was rising so I thought things would get better. I got a couple by myself and then MikeyB and Mash paddled over from the reefs in between Sarges and me. Mash was on his brother John's Mahi One (Stamps built) SUP and proceeded to rip the place apart. He was a one man wave magnet, getting the longest rides of the afternoon, on the best waves that came through. He was just there and in the right spot every time. The way he was riding, I would say that Mash and his new board have a beautiful relationship going. 
Firefighter Brother Joe paddled over about forty-five minutes later and we had a great time. He was on his 11′9″ Angulo Nui, just chasing down everything he bent his paddle to. It was great being out in the water with him again. We hadn't surfed together since our Maldives trip several years ago. He got an outrageously long ride in the dimming light near the end of our session, just soul arching his big Nui across a 150-yard section, locked in perfect and me screaming in the bleachers. Soul surfing! 
Joe sent me an email last summer that captures, in part, the heart of the SUP experience. He wrote, "I went for a paddle out past the buoy, outside of Sarges and well off shore. It was one of those days we had where the surf was small, the wind was still and the water like glass all 
day. I saw whales just a little further out from where I was and I just enjoyed the peace and solitude of paddling off shore." Joe knows a little about offshore solitude as he is a blue water free diver, who once held the world record for largest tuna taken with a spear gun.
MikeyB was picking off waves in his trademark laid back and casual style of SUPing…"What, me worry?"
As for my surfing, I paddled into a lot of close-outs but my wave of the day was a long ride from Yellow House to past Dicks…about 200 yards, sweet! The real session today though was surfing with good friends in the awesome beauty that is our heritage and our responsibility.
The sky turned gray near dusk as the storm from Canada started to makes it's presence known. The wind was bitter cold and blowing steadily. I could feel the icy bite on my bare fingers. Periodic light rain accompanied the lowering ceilings and I was beginning to believe the NWS forecast of snow at the lower elevations. What a great time to be alive.
The down wind paddle back to the vill was quick and easy. The lights on the pier and in the vill's promenade were guiding me home. Did I say life is good? Thank you Jesus!
January 20, 2008 (Su)
In: 1552
1st Wave: n/a
Out: 1740
Wave count: n/a
AT= 53 - 47 degrees
WT= 53 degrees at the farshore buoy
Wx: Partly cloudy to storm clouds moving in
Tide: -1.3 Rising to .37
Wind: WNW at 5 mph, to NNW at 3 mph
Sea Surface: Light rolling sea with wind mottling
Buoy: NWS
1400: 6.2 feet @ 16 Seconds W
1500: 6.6 feet @ 14.8 Seconds WNW
1600: 5.6 feet @ 16 Seconds WNW
1700: 6.6 feet @ 16 Seconds W
1800: 6.2 feet @ 14.8 Seconds WNW
10′4″ Angulo SUP with Infinity paddle
Rock reefs
Waves: 3.5-4.5 feet at 14.8 seconds (Nearshore buoy approx. ave.) Storm Surf Buoy Model [Link]
Doldruminous; Ho-Huminous - Let's Cross Train!
Unless your forte is a vehicular coastal search or your special knowledge has you dialed into that secret uber-high tide mysto wave, downtime is the current name of the game. Since I surf almost exclusively in town with excursions to the local beachies nearby, this current lull gives me opportunity to live my "other" life that is not usurped by the Mr. Hyde like neurotic obsession with wave riding.
Time now to pay the bills, expand my consciousness with productive reading (currently Reinhold Niebuhr, "The Essential Reinhold Niebuhr"), actually become a member of my family again, and of course never falling too far from the tree, cross-train.
Current regimen: Qi Gong in the morning (an excellent dynamic stretch and overall physical health inducer), afternoon walks on the beach with M, and evening Bowflex strength training. As my SUPS (Stand Up Paddle Surfing) skills improve, I've begun pushing the physical envelope a bit more, stressing and thus necessitating the strengthening of those muscles most used in SUPS. A big change over prone surfing is the leg strength component that is essential for more performance oriented SUPS. This has added an additional dimension to my fitness training and, once realized and addressed, has been a pleasant change in that all change is not necessarily pleasant.
For overall physical fitness, SUPS has it over prone surfing two to one. I'm currently looking for a poster size pic of the posted image here that I can frame and hang on the wall in my home gym, directly opposite my Bowflex. When I am straining to pump out that last set of leg extensions, and the burn is on, I can think…"That…is why I am doing this."
Postscript - Not that I'd ever SUPS Chopes (Heaven forbid)…it's just always good to aim high! [Link]
No Real Swell of Interest
Waves dropped off dramatically today as no real swell of interest is in play. Talked with Paul and his wife Libby at the grocery store and he said he's been getting some fun breakers at a local beachie on his SUP.
There’s really nothing significant on the satellite animations but the Storm Surf NPAC Surface Pressure and Wind animation is showing an event forming now, with a smaller storm event following.
Nothing on the farshore buoys that would indicate anything going on within the next 24 hours or so. The NPAC water vapor loop isn't showing any swell producing winds. Time to start checking the beach breaks, but not to take my eye off the nearshore buoy just in case.
Had breakfast with MikeyB at Zelda's. He's about to get a Haut performance SUP so that's exciting. He meets with Doug next week. [Link]
Small Surf in Choppy Wind Waves
There was a decent nearshore wind swell in the water that was rendered challenging by incessant "offshore" winds. Just standing up on the ocean surface was a good workout today.
High pressure situated at 135W/45N and over the Great Basin in combination with the low pressure along the California coast has conspired to create offshore winds that are gusting up to 50 mph in the inland hills. What this does for us is to put a very nearshore easterly wind swell on the water that ends up putting one to three troughs on the faces of whatever decent farshore wind swell waves that are making landfall. Thus we have waves, in difficult conditions.
I surfed for two hours this morning, paddling out at the pier in hopes of some low tides waves at the reefs. That didn't happen, so I paddled up to Sarges, and then to Gdubs. I chose to pass by the two folks who were out at Sarges and rode a couple waves at Gdubs. But the best shaped waves were pushing right into the primary kelp bed. One wave there was enough to make me head back to Sarges. By the time I got there the two folks who were out had left so I surfed it for the next hour and a half by myself. I got a ton of small waves with late off-balance take-offs, and some fun fast sections inside. Junky waves, but I was having fun.
There is something so peaceful about standing on the water, waiting for the next wave; and then spotting it coming, maneuvering for the take-off, chasing it down, feeling the tail lift and push you forward into the first drop and following sections, ending with a kick out and fast turn to paddle back out. It doesn't seem like it should be this satisfying…but it is.
January 16, 2008 (W)
In: 0955
1st Wave: n/a
Out: 1200
Wave count: n/a
AT= 51 - 59 degrees
WT= 54 degrees at the farshore buoy
Wx: A few high clouds
Tide: .99 Falling to 0.68, Rising to .79
Wind: East at 3 mph, to NNE at 5 mph
Sea Surface: Incessant pre-white cap rolling sea
Buoy: NWS
0900: 11.2 feet @ 10.8 Seconds NW
1000: 9.5 feet @ 11.4 Seconds NW
1100: 8.5 feet @ 12.1 Seconds NW
1200: 9.8 feet @ 11.4 Seconds NW
1300: 10.2 feet @ 10.8 Seconds NW
10′4″ Angulo SUP with Infinity paddle
Rock reefs
Waves: 3-4 feet at 11.4 seconds (Nearshore buoy approx. ave.) Storm Surf Buoy Model [Link]
The Maverick's of the SUP World
[Link]
Swell Drops; Still Some Fun Ones
The most significant winter swell of the last couple years is finally working it's ways off the planet and into the history books. It was memorable, classic, if not epic. I will long remember those long, long rides on steep faces through fast winter wind fortified sections.
Although size was much diminished today, there were still plenty of fun waves. I paddled out and into an all encompassing sunrise just a little before 7AM. It was cold and the offshores made it colder. Full rubber was the order of the day.
All the places were going good at waist to shoulder high. Gdubs was packed at dawn with seven surfers. I stayed at Sarges and surfed by myself for the first half hour. Then I was joined by Steve and a few others. I surfed for three hours and finished up at In Betweens.
The next swell is working it's way through the faraway buoys with a 20 second pulse, size smaller than the last swell. It may be here at first light.
January 14, 2008 (M)
In: 0655
1st Wave: n/a
Out: 1005
Wave count: n/a
AT= 40 - 57 degrees
WT= 54 degrees at the farshore buoy
Wx: A few high clouds
Tide: 2.3 Falling to 1.9, Rising to 2.1
Wind: Calm to NE at 3 mph, light south wind at 1015AM
Sea Surface: Moderately rolling sea to calm and glassy
Buoy: NWS
0600: 8 feet @ 13 Seconds WNW
0700: 9 feet @ 13 Seconds WNW
0800: 8.5 feet @ 12 Seconds WNW
0900: 8.5 feet @ 12 Seconds WNW
1000: 8 feet @ 12 Seconds WNW
10′4″ Angulo SUP with Infinity paddle
Rock reefs
Waves: 5-7 feet at 13 seconds (Nearshore buoy approx. ave.) Storm Surf Buoy Model
[Link]
Day of Rest
It was another big day in NorCal and I was just too tired from SUP surfing hard the last three days to paddle out. The spirit was willing, but the flesh was weak. So the only good waves I got this morning were digital. Lot's of people got plenty of good rides. Priscilla, her son and the Doc paddled out at daylight. I saw them after they got out a few hours later, and they were stoked!
Overall though, conditions didn't seem quite as good as yesterday morning, but things smoothed out a lot by mid-morning. There was an east wind blowing at 15 to 20 mph thirty miles out to sea at the farshore buoy. This put a warble in the waves and bumps on the ocean surface that the light offshores couldn't groom out. But size was no problem. After backing down a bit last night, the swell jumped up to 12-14 feet at 16 seconds by sunrise. Big sets were mega-humongous and moving so much water that very few were able to catch the biggest waves. They were just too hard to paddle into. You needed a Waimea/Mavericks big wave gun to shoot these monsters. It was almost comical watching a couple guys trying to catch waves on their six foot something squash tail thrusters at Self Destructions. Even when they did manage to paddle in, they would just skip down the face after the late, late drop.
The SUP rider in the sequence took down a 200 yard ride before the inside section took him down. He had just enough time to paddle hard out the back and over some bombs that bore down on him faster than a speeding bullet.
Forecasters are calling for things to settle down after today.
January 13, 2008 (Su)
0600: 11 feet @ 16 Seconds WNW
0700: 12.5 feet @ 16 Seconds WNW
0800: 12.5 feet @ 16 Seconds WNW
0900: 13.5 feet @ 16 Seconds WNW
1000: 14.4 feet @ 16 Seconds WNW
[Link]
More Good Waves and Long Rides
As forecast, the swell jumped up in size overnight yielding many overhead, consistent sets full of good waves. I paddled out at sunrise and a medium tide. Even with the tide, the easterly wind waves and cliff driven backwash combined with the surf producing swell from the WNW, made for lot's of bumps, backwash and sideways action. I paddled down to Sarges from the Pier put-in, and directly into my first of two, 200+ yard bombs. Wave faces were smooth and the inside reefs were jacking up and crankin'. On my long paddle back out to the lineup I watched Jamie take a double overhead drop and go screaming by, heading for another long ride.
Surftech John was out on his Laird 10 footer shaped by Ron House. John is the best SUP surfer I've ever seen in person. It's always a treat to watch him SUP surf. At 27" wide John can make the 10' Laird do tricks I can only dream about. Also at 27" the board is pretty unstable. John has such good balance he can wobble around in the rolling sea and still make it look easy. Interestingly, John said he really doesn't see the added value at 27" over 28 or 29 inches. Hmmm, we'll have to talk more about this.
Greg’s wife was out on her twinzer, absolutely dominating Middles, and putting on a surfing clinic for the rest of us.
Again today I experienced the longest rides ever at Sarges. Yesterday was the longest rides at the Reefs, today it was Sarges to Yellow House. My legs are killin' me.
January 12, 2008 (Sa)
In: 0713
1st Wave: n/a
Out: 0905
Wave count: n/a
AT= 43 - 50 degrees
WT= 54 degrees at the farshore buoy
Wx: Partly cloudy
Tide: 2.7 Rising to 3.5
Wind: N at 1 mph to NNW at 2 mph
Sea Surface: Rolling and bumpy sea
Buoy: NWS
0600: 13 feet @ 16 Seconds WNW
0700: 14 feet @ 17 Seconds WNW
0800: 14 feet @ 17 Seconds WNW
0900: 13 feet @ 17 Seconds WNW
1000: 13 feet @ 17 Seconds WNW
10′4″ Angulo SUP with Infinity paddle
Rock reefs
Waves: 12-15 feet at 16 seconds (Nearshore buoy approx. ave.) Storm Surf Buoy Model
[Link]
Best Ever SUPing
Me and the Angulo partnered up today for the best rides I have ever experienced at the reefs. I ripped down no less than five 375 yard (1/5th of a mile) waves from Yellow House to past Herbies. Like my son Neal used to say when he was a toddler…"I love you way up on top of God's House." That's how good it was today.
The forerunners hit the farshore buoy at 8AM, well ahead of schedule with 21 second period energy. It got better from there. By night fall the buoy was registering 10' at 19 seconds WNW. Size should increase all night long and peak sometime tomorrow. Once again I was too distracted by riding good waves to get any good water shots.
The reefs are on at lower tides, so tomorrow morning shouldn't be anything great there. But down towards the point could be goodus maximus (Latin for "most bitchin'".) I'll be out with the dawn patrol. Or…perhaps this is the year when it all comes together at a higher tide. Maybe even a mile ride from Sarges to the Pier? Oh My God!
It rarely gets this good, this lined up, this rich in congruent forces. Give thanks with a grateful heart.
January 11, 2008 (F)
In: 1545
1st Wave: n/a
Out: 1715
Wave count: n/a
AT= 58 - 55 degrees
WT= 54 degrees at the farshore buoy
Wx: Partly cloudy
Tide: 1.8 Falling to -0.22
Wind: WSW at 1 mph to calm
Sea Surface: Rolling and bumpy sea to calm and semi-glassy
Buoy: NWS
1500: 8 @ 21 WNW
1600: 9 @ 19 W
1700: 9.5 @ 19 W
1800: 10.2 @ 19 WNW
10′4″ Angulo SUP with Infinity paddle
Rock reefs
Waves: 6-8 feet at 20 seconds (Nearshore buoy approx. ave.) Storm Surf Buoy Model [Link]
Real Deal; WNW at 16 Seconds
The high energy WNW swell peaked last night just after dark, posting farshore buoy data numbers for wave height and period of 12 feet at 19 seconds. I surfed it this morning as it was slowly dropping but still providing hard core NPAC wave energy.
With the high tide and big swell, access with my SUP is always dicey. Launching at Sarge's isn't so bad…it's the getting out that is the gamble. With a full volume very floaty SUP, getting tossed into a cement wall or a very unfriendly pile of rip-rap isn't a possibil