Stand Up and Paddle

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by Todd Bradley

“Bobby, you like talk story now?”

Bobby Achoy’s hand feels like a rusty steel mitt as I grip it in the classic Hawaiian handshake. The famous Waikiki beachboy has put more miles on his hands than any waterman I have ever met, whether wrapped around a canoe paddle or from greeting the countless tourists he has squired around the gentle rollers of Waikiki Beach. I have asked him if we could talk about the origins of ‘beachboy style’ or ’stand-up’ surfing and, nodding in agreement, we sit down on the lava rock wall in front of the Duke Kahanamoku statue for my history lesson.

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