I’ve been waiting to get in the water for a few days because the rain and weather has been pretty terrible. Along with that, I had a pretty busy week of work. I got some time to sneak away yesterday to the North Shore of Oahu with my buddy Kekoa although I wasn’t sure at first because it looked huge in the online surf cam.
When coming through the sugar cane fields on the way to Haleiwa we saw the waves peeling from miles away. That’s how you know it’s really big…when you’re 10 miles away and can see the wave breaking. We stopped Puena Point first and took a look. The water was chocolate brown from all the runoff from the heavy rain but there were some waves. At first it looked really small but there was a group of surfers sitting way outside. After 15 minutes, we didn’t see any of those surfers way out catch anything. I guess it was between sets.
We drove over to check out Laniakea, then Chun’s Reef and then Leftovers. They all had big surf with waves breaking across the whole area so I didn’t see any channel to work with. I’m hesitant once it gets overhead and tentative once it gets double overhead. I’m not really a big wave guy. I just don’t like to get held under for a long period of time. If there’s a channel then I’m ok but for the most part I’m not that adventurous.
We ended up going back to Puena Point and I have to say I had one of the best sessions I’ve had in a while. It ended up breaking consistently outside and once I was out there I saw another stand up paddler on the horizon. Low and behold it ended up being Nate from SUP Surf Mag. I asked him how he got the ‘pass’ to go out surfing because Nate just had a new baby. He said his wife was cool and had no issue with it. Nate was on a PSH 9’4” ripper and made it look like a short board. I saw him catch some sweet overhead waves and he was sitting on the outside waiting for the bigger sets to roll in.
A little while later I saw another stand up paddler coming out and it turned out to be Haleiwa Bill. It’s great to meet in person the guys in the SUP community that we converse with online. Bill said he caught some of the biggest waves he’s ever caught on a SUP during that session. He had a huge smile on his face.
My memory of the day is paddling out and waiting just inside of the outer line up with Nate. Nate looks over at me and says, “I wonder why they’re sitting that far out….they’re gonna miss the good stuff coming.” Like clockwork, about a minute after he said that a big set rolled in and wiped us out. I took in some water but couldn’t help smiling and laughing because it was pretty funny. Needless to say, I had a good time.